#1 Anything Subaru, #2 2009 Toyota Matrix with AWD. Also, since you like VW, an Audi Quattro A3 or A4, though they not as affordable. Not sure if all wheel drive is going to help much with hydroplaning though, just slow down in the rain.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroplaning_(road_vehicle)

http://www.denverpost.com/lifestyles/ci_5881822

Also the Mazda3 5door is a great alternative to a VW! Euro styling and handling with Japanese reliability. No all wheel drive though.

what about the suzuki sx4 hatch? it's awd and actually the cheapest awd vehicle you can buy here in the states.

http://www.suzukiauto.com/sr_08/sx4_crossover/

ditto previous comment, hydroplaning is largely affected by your driving style. you really have to slow down early enough so that you're not breaking AFTER you realized you went too fast into the water puddle.

the next most important thing is your choice of tires. there are a lot of resources that rate tires' resistance to hydroplaning, performance in ice and snow, etc. many people have the misconception that somehow AWD helps snow traction. it only helps the average person move forward. any vector other than straight ahead, your best bet would actually be the right set of tires. that means if you want to keep from sliding sideways, spinning out, or hydroplaning, you need to do your homework researching the best tires for your needs. you'd be surprised how much of a difference they can make. if you don't have any other problems with your current car, and you don't seem to like "fancy," you can save a bundle of money by having a second set of wheels mounted with winter tires that you swap. can be a bit of a hassle but saves you a lot of money

I agree with JT, all wheel drive will not help with your hydroplaning problem. You might want to consider another front wheel drive car and look for tires that are more capable of dealing with standing water....and slow down a bit. Good luck!

This has more or less been said already, but a change in tires will make far more of a difference than going to AWD. FWD should be fine.

Only tires can change your resistance to hydroplaning at any specific speed. Tread design and compounding matter a lot. Once you find the tires you want, then go as narrow as you can.
For any given tire, a narrower size of that tire will take in less water underfoot, will have a longer contact patch, and so can better squeeze the water out, and still have tread on the road to grab some traction.
The size of the tire contact patch, or footprint, is determined only by the weight of the car, and the tire air pressure.
The shape of the contact patch, with a particular car weight and tire pressure, will be wide and short for a wider tire, and narrow and long for a narrower tire.
The wide tires are better for the racetrack, but only on a dry day.
Most cars come with tires wider than you should have off the racetrack. Wide tires are the trendy style, and car magazines test cars at the racetrack on dry days, in California where it is easy to schedule for a dry day.

Hi...
Beyond getting the correct tires for the type of driving you do, consider the Mazda3 5dr WITH electronic stability control. It's available with a sunroof, but a bit pricey...this machine can take a lickin' and keep on tickin', so to speak. At least check it out.
Good luck, B!
Peace<-AladdinSane-

Audi A3 hatchback is the best for what you want. You can get the legendary quattro and the features you want without it getting too fancy or expensive.

Didn't s/he said used will be fine?
Why not a 9-2x?

Hydroplaning is a direct function of your tires and of course speed. Research tires before purchase, you likely have poor tires or worn ones. An AWD will hydroplane too if equipped with your current tires.

What do you mean by 'AWD'
Four wheel drive, with a center differential?
'part time' systems that primarily work at low speeds <25mph, and taper off by 50mph, and operate almost exclusively as front drive at 60mph or faster. Such as Haldex. This a quote regarding the dodge caliber/avenger
"At speeds greater than 53 mph, the control strategy provides minimal torque to the rear wheels under normal driving conditions to provide better fuel economy."

So the tires make all the difference. Tread depth, tire pressure, and tread shape (directional tires usually are better) are key to avoiding hydroplaning.

A Saab 9-2x would be good, avoid the non-turbocharged automatic model, there is no center differential there.

This tire is the master at avoiding hydroplanning.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/BigPic.jsp?sidewall=Blackwall&tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+F1+GS-D3

First of all, guys, about hydroplaning...
You can put the best tires on the light vehicle and it will still hydroplane.
To stop hydroplaning, first thing you need - heavy car. The tires are arguable condition. Because their best performance comes when they new. After 20-30K it is not the same.
The second condition is - to have a rear wheel drive car. Those hydroplane much less then FWD or AWD. The reason is because when such car slams into the water, the front wheels make a pass to the rear, and also the front wheels do not spin under acceleration and do not create a flow on which car hydroplanes.
So, the answer to the question here is: no small car, AWD, FWSD or 4WD will be resistant to hydroplaning.
Heavy or/and RWD will be much better for such condition.
But the best is to take it really slow over the water.

Sorry Tony, that logically doesn't follow.
First you say you need a 'heavy car', then you need rear drive.
Front wheel drive vehicles are effectively heavier.

Most front drive cars are about 60/40 weight distribution, couple that with higher front tire pressure 35psi front 30psi rear, and for wet/winter weather, you want more tread depth on the rear-for stability.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=3

Rear drive cars, 50/50 weight distribution, are most susceptible to hydroplaning. They can get to a point where the front wheels are so completely removed from the pavement, that the front wheels can be turned from lock to lock without changing the direction of the vehicle.
All while the rear wheels dutifully provide thrust.

Front drive + more tire pressure on the front axle + more tread depth on the rear, has gotten me through the toughest of winters.

While more tread depth & more tire pressure on the front has provided more than enough traction to see what fresh Rain-X looks like at 100mph, on a highly raked windshield.

As an example.
BMW 528i, about 50/50 weight distribution. 17 x 7.5" wheels, 225/50 17 tires. BMW usually recommends 10% higher rear tire pressure (they want to avoid lawsuits from overloaded rear tire failures) so 30psi front 33 psi rear

compared to
Hyundai Sonata V6, about 10% more front heavy than the BMW. 17 x 6.5" wheels, 215/55 17 tires. 33psi front 30psi rear is good inflation pressures.

The BMW is far more at risk of hydroplanning.
That is why it is almost a necessity for directional tires on rear drive cars.
Just look at the MB E350, 245/45 17 on 17x8 wheels, careful there.

Drive safely.

I'm looking for an AWD, preferably hatchback for my daughter's first car. Would like used, what cars beside subaru have AWD in the past 10 years?

Eclipse GSX
Eagle Talon TSI AWD
ummm
thats all i can think off at the momment..

what happens when your car is hydroplaning? i just started driving and would like to know what this all means. i drive a ford focus. what is the difference and which one is the best besides 4wd? fwd, 2wd, awd? and which one of these is best to drive on snow and ice? thanks

I saw a train yesterday!